Cordoba, Spain: Where Jews, Christians & Muslims Co-existed In Medieval Europe

Cordoba, Spain: Where Jews, Christians & Muslims Co-existed In Medieval Europe

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Andalucia is my favorite region of Spain. From the 8th to the 15th century, most of what is now Spain and Portugal was called al-Andalus and was ruled by the Muslim Moors. The Andalucia region, specifically Granada, was the last part of Spain to be re-conquered by the Christians, so the food, architecture, and culture are different from other parts of Spain.

Cordoba was the capital of the Caliphate of Cordoba from which the Umayyad dynasty ruled all of al-Andalus until 1031. A lot of tourists stay one night in Cordoba, but this is not enough to see all of the historic and interesting sites. 

The 8th to the 14th century is referred to as the Islamic 'golden age.' Al-Andalus was home to many philosophers and scholars and was the hub for cultural and social exchange. The arts, architecture, science, agriculture, medicine, and mathematics flourished. Cordoba was the birthplace of Rabbi and philosopher, Maimonides. Jews, Christians, and Muslims co-existed until the edict of 1492, which expelled Jews from Spain. Later, between 1492 and 1610 most Muslims voluntarily left or were kicked out.


Statue of Maimonides

Getting There

I took the AVE high speed train to Cordoba. I bought the tickets on the Renfe app. There is a small airport, but it only serves the Spanish islands: Grand Canary and Mallorca. The next closest airport is Sevilla, which is 64 miles from Cordoba.

Getting Around

Ride sharing apps didn't work for me in Cordoba. However, the city is small and walkable. Most sites are within a 20 minute walk. There are taxi stands or you can ask your hotel to arrange taxis for you. There are also public buses. Most tourist attractions are in the city center with the exception of Madina Azahara, which is 20 minutes by car from the city center. There is a tourist bus for €10. You can buy the tickets at the tourist center near the Mezquita or online

Things To Do

No trip to Cordoba is complete without a visit to the Mezquita AKA The Great Mosque. It was constructed in 785 and was expanded multiple times up to the late 10th century. The mosque was converted to a cathedral in 1236 when Córdoba was captured by the Christian forces of Castile during the Reconquista. The structure itself underwent only minor modifications until a major building project in the 16th century. After the Christian re-conquest, the Christians pulled the ultimate flex and built a cathedral right in the middle of the Great Mosque. It is a fascinating mixture of Islamic and Christian renaissance architecture. I am truly grateful that the Christians didn't destroy the building. Apparently, the first Christian King mandated its preservation.

Mezquita

Not far from the Mezquita is the Roman Bridge. What is viewable is not Roman. The 1st century BC Roman foundation is underneath. At the end of the bridge is the Torre de la Calahorra, which is a fortified gate of Islamic origin. Inside is a museum that exhibits life in al-Andalus featuring models of the Alhambra and the Mezquita.


The Full Coverage Tank at the Torre de la Calahorra

The Moorish and Roman history of Cordoba are showcased at The Archaeological Museum, which houses artifacts found in Cordoba and the province, from prehistoric times up to the period of Arabic rule. An excellent compliment to the museum is the Medina Azahara, which are actual Moorish ruins.


Medina Azahara

Medina Azahara was a fortified palace-city on the western outskirts of Cordoba about 20 minutes by car from the old city. Its remains are a major archaeological site today. The city was built in the 10th century by Abd ar-Rahman III (912–961), a member of the Umayyad dynasty and the first caliph of al-Andalus. It served as the capital of the Caliphate of Cordoba and its center of government. Between 1010 and 1013 it was sacked during a civil war and thereafter abandoned, with many of its materials re-used elsewhere.

Casa de Sefarad is a museum about Sephardic Jews, specifically the ones who lived in Cordoba. It has live singing of old Sephardic songs, some written by Maimonides, multiple times during the day including 5pm. 


Painting at Casa de Sefarad

Near the Casa de Sefarad and situated in the heart of the old Jewish Quarter is a The Synagogue. It is one of the three best preserved Medieval synagogues in the whole of Spain. The other two are in Toledo. According to the inscriptions found in the building, it was built between the years 1314 and 1315, and was in constant use right up until the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492. The synagogue was discovered by accident in the 19th century during renovations. It had been used as a hospital for people with rabies, then a chapel, and then an HQ for the shoemakers union.

Construction of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos was ordered by the King Alfonso XI of Castile in 1328 on previous constructions by the Visigoths and then the Moors. It was a fortress that served as one of the primary residences of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. Christopher Columbus met with Isabella at the fortress to unsuccessfully ask for an investment for his trip to India. She said, "yes" at a later meeting in a different city when he changed his elevator pitch from "more riches" to "Christianizing the world."

Throwback and recent photo of me at the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

Close to the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos is the Banos del Alcazar Califal. These Arab baths were situated next to what used to be the Omeyan Castle, which it was most likely attached to, and were one the biggest baths of their kind in the city. The baths were built during the reign of the Caliph Alhakem II. From the 11th to the 13th centuries, the baths were used by the Almoravid and Almohad rulers.

Cordoba is known for its patios (courtyards decorated with plants). There's even a Courtyards Festival of Cordoba, which is a courtyard competition that has been held since 1921, and is generally held during the first and second week of the month of May. Participants decorate and open their courtyards for free so that they can be visited during festival hours. Many artisan shops such as Plata Cordobesa and Meryan have patios that are beautifully decorated. A few patios open to the public include Patios de San Basilio, Patios Cordobeses, and Palacio de Viana. which is a 14th century palace of the Marquises of Viana with 12 patios.


Patios


Patios

Spain still has a monarchy and, thus, the Royal Stables are still in operation. It houses the best stallions and mares of the royal stud breed Andalusian horse. By royal decree of Felipe II on November 28, 1567, the Spanish Horse breed with formalized standards was created, and a royal stable was established in Cordoba. The king commissioned the stables to be built on part of the site of the Alcázar fortress. Every evening they put on a show that is a fusion of flamenco and the art of horse riding, and line some of the horses up so guests can pet them. Also, the stables are open during the day for spectators to watch the horses practice.


Me at the Royal Stables
If you haven't had a hammam experience, you are missing out. I had been to Hammam Al Andalus in Granada and was very impressed, so I had to try the one in Cordoba and it didn't disappoint. 

Hotels

I stayed at Hotel Boutique Suite Generis, which I highly recommend. It is a concept hotel with unique decor. It's not really a business trip hotel, because there weren't many electrical outlets and there wasn't a desk in my room. However, most people go to Cordoba for vacation and not work. Breakfast is simple but good: toast with jam or ham and cheese, orange juice and coffee. They also provide jugs for their purified water machine. The service was impeccable.

I also recommend Patio del Posadero, which has a more homely, old world Moorish decor. There are only six rooms and the vibe is familial. It also has a pool, which is rare for a hotel at that price point. I happened to go there for brunch and was wowed by the hospitality, food quality, and decor.

Restaurants

Moriles Ribera
Bistro at Patio del Posadero
Baños árabes de Santa María (restaurant in old Moorish baths with evening flamenco shows)

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