Laos — The Land of a Million Elephants (and a Million Kip in My Wallet)

For my latest Busty Girl Travels adventure, I headed somewhere completely new for me: Laos. As usual, I brought my versatile full bust-friendly wardrobe, because nothing tests clothing durability like tropical heat, temple tours, and wading knee-deep in rice paddies.

Before I even landed, Laos gave me my first surprise: Thai Airways served a full hot meal on a 2.5-hour flight from Hong Kong to Bangkok. Meanwhile, British Airways once tried to charge me for a Coke on a 3-hour flight from Seville to London. As my friend who lives in London said, "Oh yeah, they just throw a bottle of water at you and move on." At this point, European airlines are racing each other to become Ryanair in disguise.

Vientiane: Bombs, Temples & Breakdancers

My first stop was Vientiane, the quiet, capital-that-doesn’t-feel-like-a-capital of Laos. I started at the two museums dedicated to clearing the cluster bombs dropped by the U.S. during the Vietnam War — COPE and the MAG UXO Visitor Centre. These places are sobering, informative, and completely free. But I made sure to leave a donation. At the MAG UXO Centre, I chatted with a young woman who literally deactivates bombs for a living. She was brave, kind, and passionate about her work — Laos is full of women like her.

COPE Visitors Centre

Visiting these museums, I learned that Laos is the most heavily bombed country per capita in world history, and the unexploded ordnance still affects daily life. Many people (mostly children and farmers) have their limbs blown off or are even killed when they accidentally step on an unexploded bomb. After these visits, I called my dad (who served in Vietnam) and learned some things that, let’s just say, didn’t quite match Nixon’s press conferences.

From there, I stumbled upon an artisan festival on the taxi ride back. I saw so many beautiful clothes — but the fit? A busty girl nightmare as usual. Still, the festival had great music and a fun atmosphere.

That evening, I walked to the Mekong waterfront, where I found an unexpected amusement park, breakdancers, and more communist flags than I could count.

Temples With Stories: A Little History Behind Each One

Laos may feel laid-back, but its temples come with centuries of history — layers of legends, royal rituals, invasions, and restorations. Here’s the background on the ones I visited:

Wat Si Muang

This temple is one of the most spiritually important places in Vientiane. Built in 1563, it sits on what was once a Khmer Hindu shrine — which is why you’ll still find remnants of ancient foundations beneath it. Its origin story is dramatic: legend says a young pregnant woman named Si Muang sacrificed herself in the foundation pit to appease spirits during construction. Today, locals come here for blessings, especially for new ventures and babies. It’s one of the liveliest temples in Vientiane.

Wat Si Muang

Wat Sisaket

Built in 1818 by King Anouvong, it’s famous for surviving the 1827 Siamese–Lao war, making it the oldest temple still standing in its original form in Vientiane. Its cloister walls are filled with over 6,000 Buddha images, tucked into tiny niches. I loved the Buddhas holding money — apparently offerings for prosperity.

Haw Phra Kaew (Ho Phrakeo Museum)

Once the personal temple of the Lao king, Haw Phra Kaew was built in 1565 to house the Emerald Buddha — yes, the same one now in Bangkok. Siamese forces took the statue in 1779 and never gave it back. The temple was rebuilt several times and is now a museum with beautiful Lao Buddhist art, royal roof decorations, and naga-serpent imagery.

Pha That Luang

The national symbol of Laos, this golden stupa dates back to the 3rd century, though it was rebuilt many times — most notably by King Setthathirath in the 1500s. Legend says the stupa contains a relic of the Buddha. It’s so iconic that it appears on national currency and government seals.

Wat That Luang Tai

Located just south of Pha That Luang, this temple complex is known for its massive reclining Buddha — a newer addition but already beloved. This site served historically as the area for monks and novices studying at the main stupa complex.

Buddha Park: A Cool Place to Explore

One of the coolest places I visited in Vientiane was Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan) — an eclectic, slightly surreal sculpture park created in 1958 by the mystic priest-shaman Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, who combined Buddhist and Hindu iconography into over 200 concrete statues. The giant reclining Buddha is the star, but the whole place has this dreamlike, mythological vibe that feels unlike anything else in Laos. What really surprised me was how relaxing it was — the park sits right along the Mekong River, and there are restaurants and shaded seating areas where you can sip a drink or grab lunch while watching the water and cooling off from the heat. It’s weird, it’s spiritual, it’s artistic… and it’s very, very cool.

Cafés, Desserts & the Unexpected Food Moments

One thing about Southeast Asia: the cafés are always on point.
Near my hotel, I found a swanky café, Arte, serving Western breakfasts, and I went back multiple times.

Other highlights:

• Little House Café with an adorable gift shop of true artisan goods
• Laninim Coffee for rose coffee and blueberry cheesecake
• 525 Eat & Drink, where the Biscoff dessert lives rent-free in my head

I also visited the Textile Museum, where I bought butterfly pea tea that changes color with lime — very Instagrammable, very fun.

History & Politics: Museums Everywhere

I visited the Kaysone Phomvihane Memorial — not the museum I was originally aiming for because it was closed, but the memorial had its own charm. The English tour guide had left for the day, so we communicated through a translation app that once blurted out “F*** you.” I really hope that was a glitch.

The Lao National Museum wasn’t the most in-depth museum in the world, but it’s a decent way to kill time, especially since it’s between downtown and the train station. I was amused by the displays of opium pipes, bricks of marijuana, and heroin. Hopefully they have cameras on those bricks in case someone starts feeling entrepreneurial.

I also squeezed in the Lao People’s Army History Museum, which has old American and Vietnamese warplanes, and disarmed cluster bombs. A must for war history buffs. Near Pha That Luang is the King Chao Anouvong (Chao Anou) Statue is one of Vientiane’s most iconic landmarks. The statue honors King Chao Anouvong (also known as Chao Anou), the last monarch of the Lao Kingdom of Vientiane. He ruled from 1805 to 1828 and is remembered as a national hero for leading a rebellion against Siam (modern-day Thailand) in an effort to restore Lao independence.

Spa Life: Always Superior in Southeast Asia

I will say it forever: Southeast Asia has some of the best spas in the world.
I went to:

• Sarila Wellness & Spa
• Breeze Spa at my hotel (with discounts on already affordable prices!)

Both were incredible and very affordable compared to Western spa prices.

The High-Speed Train: A Comedy of Errors

I took the high-speed train to Luang Prabang, which goes all the way to China. Important note: you MUST have your original passport to board.

Guess who forgot her passport?
Me.

By the time I retrieved it, the train I originally booked had left and the next two trains were full. I had to rearrange my entire itinerary and stay overnight in Luang Prabang — which honestly turned out for the best because Luang Prabang deserves days, not hours.

Pro tip: train stations are far from the city center and train travel is popular, so don’t attempt to buy tickets same-day at the station. You can buy tickets online, but they take a few days to be issued and it's a travel agent, so the prices are more expensive. Better option: the LCR ticket app, which locals recommended to me. However, some foreigners reported issues using it. Therefore, it's best to try to arrange the tickets through your hotel.

Luang Prabang: Colonial Charm & Rice Paddies

Luang Prabang is the crown jewel of Laos — a former French Indochina city filled with colonial villas, artisan markets, and lush mountains. Everyone told me to spend more time here than Vientiane, and they were right.

Highlights:

• Living Land Farm — I was knee-deep in mud learning the 14 steps of rice cultivation with a lovely lunch featuring sticky rice at the end. Step 14 was added because they don’t like the number 13 — it’s the eating step. I wore the Foundation Midi Dress, and it survived rice farming with ease.
• Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre, which had a fascinating exhibit on Max Mara’s cultural appropriation of Omo Lao textile patterns and the legal protections now being developed. It's housed in a former colonial residence of a French judge.
• A much better artisan night market than Vientiane — nothing Temu-ish here.

Wat Xieng Thong

Dating back to 1560, this is one of the most important monasteries in Laos and a masterpiece of traditional Lao architecture. It was historically the site for royal coronations. The mosaics and gold stenciling are stunning, and the temple recently underwent restoration to preserve its exterior panels and intricate wood carvings. The funerary carriage hall — housing a massive gilded funeral chariot once used for Lao royalty — is a highlight.

Vat Souvannakhiri

A small but elegant temple on the main street of Luang Prabang, Vat Souvannakhiri (“Golden City Temple”) features classic Lanna-Lao style roofs and ornate gold designs. It’s more intimate than larger temples, and its charm lies in its peaceful courtyard and preserved wooden structures. The name refers to a mythical golden city in Buddhist cosmology. Lot's of sleeping dogs that call the temple home.

Money, Transportation & Safety

The exchange rate made me a millionaire in Laos — literally. $1 USD equals 21,600 KIP.

Laos is extremely affordable, and I stayed at the 5-star Amari Vientiane, with a gorgeous rooftop overlooking the night market and Mekong River for what I'd pay for a 2 star hotel in the U.S.

Getting around:

• InDrive is the cheapest but requires a VPN, becausse the government banned it. InDrive was a lifesaver in Egypt.
• LOCA works well and accepts foreign credit cards.

In terms of paying for things, cash is king, and most businesses do not take cards — or they charge a fee. LOCA and  EzyKip are popular payment apps.

Money exchange tip: go to Joint Development Bank, but bring crisp, perfect bills. Any tiny crease and they’ll reject your money. It was a fancy bank with free bottled water for guests, and the exchange rate was good.

Visa on arrival is $40 USD, cash only. Some Europeans behind me were allowed to pay in Euros.

You can buy a SIM right in the immigration area for $5 USD, cash only, unlimited data.

And yes — Laos is extremely safe. I met an American woman traveling alone with her daughter who said she felt completely secure, and I felt the same.

The only things I didn’t have time for were the Lao Art Museum and Kuang Si Falls — but I’ll save those for next time.