Fes, Morocco’s cultural and spiritual heart, is a city that effortlessly blends history, chaos, and charm. Unlike other Moroccan cities, its oldest part—the Fes el-Bali (Old Medina)—sits at its center, an intricate maze of alleyways that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. I took the train from Meknes to Fes, and here’s an important tip: always book directly through ONCF’s official website to avoid overpriced tickets from third-party sellers with inaccurate schedules.
Exploring Fes & Its Historic Landmarks
Fes is home to some of Morocco’s most stunning Islamic architecture. I visited several key landmarks, including:
- Bou Inania Madrasa – One of the few religious sites in Morocco open to non-Muslims. This 14th-century theological school features intricate zellij tilework, carved cedar wood, and beautiful stucco designs.
- Al-Attarine Madrasa – Another architectural masterpiece, located near the famous spice and perfume markets. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter.
- Bab Boujeloud (The Blue Gate) – A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the stunning entrance to the medina, known for its blue-and-green mosaic tiles.
- Jardin Jnan Sbil – Initially, part of the royal gardens, it is a peaceful escape from the medina’s hustle, with shaded pathways, fountains, and a small lake.
- Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts – A must-visit to appreciate Moroccan woodworking, housed in a beautifully restored funduq (caravanserai).
- University of al-Qarawiyyin – The oldest continuously operating university in the world (founded in 859 CE by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri). Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter.
- The Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II – The resting place of Fes’ founder and a sacred pilgrimage site. Non-Muslims cannot enter but can admire the entrance.
- Chouara Tannery – One of the oldest leather tanneries in the world, where leather is still dyed using traditional methods. Visitors are given mint leaves to mask the strong smell. Avoid buying anything here—prices are highly inflated for tourists. A local friend told me that a leather jacket shouldn't cost more than $90, so bargain hard or shop elsewhere!
As you've probably noticed, Morocco has a rule banning non-Muslims from entering mosques. My tour guide mentioned one reason was that Spanish troops once entered mosques wearing shoes during wars with Morocco, leading to a blanket restriction. However, there are other theories, and I’m not sure which is the most accurate.
Palais El Glaoui – A Palace Left to Decay
One of the most disappointing visits was Palais El Glaoui, once a symbol of the powerful Glaoui family’s rule. Today, it’s in ruins, littered with trash, and barely maintained. An artist now lives there and charges a small fee for entry, but there are no guides or information boards to explain its history. I even saw a dog stuck in an empty fountain, adding to the eerie, abandoned feel. Unless you’re desperate to see it, I wouldn’t recommend it—it’s a tragic waste of what could have been a beautiful landmark.
Fes – A Foodie's Paradise
The food in Fes is absolutely amazing! From street food to cozy local restaurants, every meal felt like a treat. The best mint tea I had was at Abdullah Thé & Café—seriously, the perfect balance of sweetness and freshness. For a fantastic sit-down meal, Restaurant Fnara did not disappoint, serving up flavorful and authentic Moroccan dishes. I also enjoyed a meal at Darb Elhora, a charming mom-and-pop spot with home-cooked goodness. And if you're looking for something quick and budget-friendly, the street food near Bab Boujeloud (the Blue Gate) is a great choice—delicious, cheap, and full of local flavors.
A Day Trip to Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, Volubilis & Meknes
From Fes, I joined a tour to Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, Volubilis, and Meknes. Though I had already been to Meknes, this time I got a more in-depth tour.
- Volubilis – A UNESCO-listed Roman ruin, once a thriving city with stunning mosaics, triumphal arches, and remnants of an ancient basilica.
- Moulay Idriss Zerhoun – One of Morocco’s holiest towns, as it is the burial site of Moulay Idriss I, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty. Non-Muslims are restricted from the shrine itself but can enjoy the panoramic views from the hillside.
One downside of organized tours in Morocco is that they often stop at tourist-trap restaurants with high prices and mediocre food. A quick Google search confirmed my suspicions, so I told my guide I wasn’t hungry (some guides dislike when tourists go to other restaurants) and found a better-rated spot nearby instead.
Hustlers & Navigating the Fes Medina
Fes is notorious for hustlers, and the medina is a maze of narrow alleys where people will try to mislead you. Some common scams:
- Locals may claim that a street is closed, trying to guide you elsewhere (often to a shop or for a tip). It’s almost always a lie.
- At Bab Guissa Cemetery, which is a Muslim cemetery, some nearby ruins offer an amazing sunset view, but a pushy local insisted we climb the ruin stairs for a better view (for a tip, of course). We refused, but he kept nagging, ruining the moment.
- As we walked to the sunset viewpoint, another guy tried to tell us we were going the wrong way. Luckily, we knew he was lying. Google Maps works well in Fes—trust it over strangers.
- On my way to the airport, I booked an InDrive, and halfway there, I noticed the driver canceled the ride—a common trick to avoid reviews. I'm petty, so I'll just email customer service. When we arrived, he claimed he had no change and pointed to a sign listing taxi fares, insisting that the 100 MAD I gave him wasn’t enough, even though he had accepted the app’s price of 71 MAD. I reminded him that the agreed-upon fare was final. Ironically, I had planned to let him keep the 100 MAD since I was leaving Morocco, but because he tried to hustle me, I demanded my change. With cars honking behind us, he suddenly "found" the change. Moral of the story? Stand your ground!
The Mellah & Jewish History in Fes
Fes also has a rich Jewish history, particularly in the Mellah (Jewish quarter). I visited:
- Ibn Danan Synagogue – One of the oldest synagogues in Morocco, beautifully restored.
- The Jewish Cemetery – A peaceful and very well-maintained site. A super friendly cat followed me around—he was a great tour guide and ambassador! A nice staff member let me into an onsite small synagogue.
- Jewish & Muslim Homes – Jewish homes have balconies, while Muslim homes have small windows and a pulley system for opening the door slightly to see visitors. The pulley system kept strangers from forcing the cracked door open, while Jewish women were kept safe by using the balcony to see what the visitors wanted. Also, Muslim homes had a side door called the "husband door", where men entered to avoid seeing unveiled female visitors.
Staying at Riad Ayla – Like a Palace!
I stayed at Riad Ayla, and it was absolutely stunning, like living in a mini palace. The traditional Moroccan zellij tilework, carved wooden doors, and tranquil courtyards made it an oasis in the middle of the city’s chaos. Highly recommend!
Final Thoughts on Fes
Fes is an intense, vibrant, and historically rich city that isn’t for the faint of heart. It can be overwhelming, but it’s also one of the most rewarding places in Morocco if you navigate it wisely. The hustlers can be annoying, but the history, architecture, and culture make up for it.