I could hardly contain my excitement when I stumbled upon a flight deal to Dakar, Senegal—my first trip to West Africa! As someone who works in international education, one of the best perks is staying connected with students from all over the world. Two of my former students from Dakar were eager to help, giving me insider tips on the best restaurants and must-have apps to make my trip smoother. With their advice in hand, I was ready to dive into the vibrant culture, rich history, and incredible food that Dakar had to offer.
Mobile Payments: A Game Changer
After getting reamed with ATM fees in Morocco and taxi drivers who swore that they didn't have change, I was relieved to learn that Senegal has two mobile payment apps: Wave and Orange Money. The catch? You need a Senegalese phone number, but once you have it, you can send yourself money from abroad for a nominal €1.49 fee. I opted to use Wave for my day to day expenses while in Dakar, because a local mentioned that it was better. With Wave, if you accidentally send the wrong person money, you can call them and they´ll refund. I had to visit a Wave kiosk to verify my ID in person, but these kiosks are everywhere.
How It Works:
- Download the Sendwave app to link your international debit card.
- Get a Senegalese SIM card (my students recommended Orange).
- Send money to yourself from your Sendwave account to your Wave/Orange Money account and use the latter to pay for taxis, restaurants, salons—basically everything.
The Orange SIM card line at the airport was long, slow, and chaotic. If I could do it again, I’d exchange money for the taxi first (the exchange rate at the airport wasn´t as horrible as I expected) and get a SIM in the city or get a SIM from Expresso, which didn't have a long line. However, as a solo female traveler, I felt safer having a working, reliable phone before taking a taxi alone.
The Airport Taxi Situation
I had no idea that ride-sharing apps are banned at the airport until it was too late. A taxi tout must have tipped off security after glancing at my phone and seeing the ride sharing app open, because as soon as I approached my ride, several security guards swarmed me and wouldn’t let me get in the car. Instead, I was forced to take an official airport taxi.
Taxi drivers will overcharge you, but it’s nowhere near as bad as Egypt. The driver initially asked for 30,000 CFA, but I pointed at the posted fare sign and firmly said I’d only pay the official 18,000 CFA price plus 5,000 CFA for tolls—he agreed. Always check the official taxi prices posted outside the airport to avoid getting scammed.
The drive into Dakar city center takes about an hour via the toll road with no traffic, but Senegal is building a train to the airport. There’s also a bus, but after waiting almost an hour for a SIM card, I just wanted to get to my Airbnb. Plus the bus stops running from the airport at 9:00pm.
Getting Around in Dakar
There are two ride-sharing apps in Dakar: Heetch and Yango. Both accept cash or mobile payments (Wave & Orange Money), and I found that ride-sharing cars are, for the most part, in better condition than taxis, which are often old, beat-up, and lack AC. The windows might work… or they might not. Also, there are taxis everywhere, so if you don't want to wait for a Yango show up, you can check the price on Yango or Heetch and ask the taxi to match it.
First Day in Dakar
I started my day taking a taxi for lunch at Caffe Noliane, where I had a fried chicken burger cooked to perfection and a refreshing bissap ginger juice. After lunch, I took a walk and stumbled upon the American Food Store, located near the U.S. Embassy, that had Skittles flavored drinks and Oyin Handmade products. I love Oyin Handmade, especially the Hair Dew Leave In Hair Lotion, and was surprised to see it in Senegal. I thought that it was only sold in the U.S. After picking up a few items, I walked past the U.S. Embassy to my next stop:
Reaching the westernmost point of Africa was an adventure in itself. Google Maps was wrong due to construction, so here’s the correct route:
➡ Walk past the U.S. Embassy on the main road.
➡ When you reach the waterfront lined with small local restaurants, turn left.
➡ Walk through a tourist market until you reach the beach.
Just as I was about to get to the westernmost point, a security guard stopped me for a shake-down. He claimed that the area was private property. I told him that I would leave, because I figured that he wanted money and I wanted time to do some internet research. I confirmed this was 100% a scam, so I returned and, since he had disappeared, power walked straight to the westernmost point.
As I was taking photos, the same officer stormed over, demanding, "You pay!" I asked "How much?" and he said 2,000 CFA (~$3). I paid via Wave just to avoid the hassle. I read on Google Reviews that some people ignored them and refused to pay, stating, "If you have a problem, call the police." Apparently, it worked.
There, I met a German traveler who had an interesting side gig providing microloans in developing countries. One of the things I love about traveling to less conventional destinations is meeting like-minded travelers with unique stories.
Items from the American Food Store
After my mini shakedown adventure, I called a Yango ride back to my Airbnb. Everything was fine… until the car broke down mid-trip. The driver was super nice and apologetic, and he even helped me hail another taxi. Senegalese hospitality for the win!
Then I had dinner at Restaurant New Africa, which features salsa dancing and karaoke on Fridays and Saturdays. The food and good vibes were wonderful.
And that was just my first day—I couldn’t wait to see what else Dakar had in store for me!
Day Two in Dakar – A Journey Through History and Culture
After an action-packed first day in Dakar, I was ready to dive deeper into the city’s history and resilience. I highly recommend taking a guided tour—it adds so much context to what you’re seeing. The highlight of the day was Gorée Island, a place of stunning beauty but also unimaginable tragedy. If you choose to go without a tour, you have to purchase boat tickets in person at the Embarcadère Île de Gorée. Credit cards are not accepted and the price is 5,200 CFA per person.
⚠️ Trigger Warning: Discussion of the Transatlantic Slave Trade ⚠️
Gorée Island was one of the largest slave trading posts in West Africa, operating for nearly 400 years—from the 15th to the 19th century. The Portuguese were the first to control the island in the 1440s, followed by the Dutch, English, and French. It became a central hub of the Transatlantic Slave Trade, where enslaved Africans were imprisoned before being forced onto ships bound for the Americas. Over 28 slave houses once stood here, designed to break the spirit of those held captive.
The Conditions Were Brutal
Men, women, and children were kept in separate dungeons, crammed together in horrific conditions. 20 men were forced into tiny cells with little air or light. They were only allowed to relieve themselves once a day by walking to the ocean. Young women, chosen for their “firm breasts,” were kept in a separate dungeon with an indoor bathroom—not out of kindness, but because they were repeatedly raped by slave traders, and they wanted them clean.
The Door of No Return
One of the most haunting places on Gorée Island is the Door of No Return—a narrow, arched doorway leading straight to the Atlantic. This was the last threshold enslaved Africans crossed before being loaded onto ships. It was their final glimpse of their homeland, never to return.
Walking through the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves), the weight of history was suffocating. When our group first entered, an Australian woman was unable to continue. Overwhelmed, she decided to go back outside.
I understood her pain—every inch of this place carried sorrow. But for me, I had to keep going for my ancestors. To stand in those dungeons, to walk through that door—it was my way of honoring their memory and ensuring their suffering is never forgotten.
Three Months of Hell
Enslaved people were held in these dungeons for three months, the time it took for ships to complete their triangular trade route:
- One month to transport enslaved Africans to the Americas.
- One month to trade goods in Europe.
- One month for the ship to return to Gorée for more captives.
A Painful Legacy
One of the slave castles was eventually purchased by the city and turned into a museum (Maison des Esclaves), preserving its dark history. Over the years, many world leaders have visited Gorée Island, including Nelson Mandela, Bill Clinton, Barack and Michelle Obama, Pope John Paul II, and The Jackson 5 (plus Joe Jackson).
Pope John Paul II’s visit was particularly significant—he publicly apologized for the Catholic Church’s role in the slave trade. A powerful example of this dark past is a slave castle with a church built directly on top of it—enslaved people were held in dungeons below, while religious services were conducted above. Inside the Church of Saint Charles Borromée, a quote from the Pope acknowledges this painful history.
Gorée Island is both heartbreaking and deeply important. It’s a place of mourning, but also one of resilience—a reminder of the strength of those who survived and the duty we have to remember their stories.
Beyond the Slave Houses: Governors, Churches, and Colonial Relics
After the abolition of slavery, the French governor moved from Gorée to Dakar, leaving behind remnants of the colonial era, such as the Governor’s Mansion, the Church of Saint Charles Borromée, and hospital next to the Governor´s Mansion for Europeans only—clear reminders of how deeply entrenched racism was in the system.
Markets, Places of Worship, and Bargaining Like a Pro
Next up: shopping! I made my way to Marché Soumbédioune, a bustling market filled with handicrafts, artwork, and souvenirs. My tour guide explained that the market was controlled and monitored by the government, so all of the jewelry was real. Be prepared to haggle—divide the first price by three and be ready to walk away if you’re not getting a fair deal.
Then we stopped for photos of the outside of the Our Lady of Victories Cathedral, one of the most important Catholic sites in Senegal. Heads up, ladies—dress modestly to enter! The cathedral is unique for its African angel statues, blending local culture with European religious traditions.
From there, we visited the outside of the Mosque of Divinity, a beautiful seaside mosque built by a marabout (spiritual leader) who claimed he had a divine vision instructing him to construct it. The mosque’s location, perched above the waves and next to a fish market, adds to its peaceful and majestic presence.
The African Renaissance Monument – Bigger Than the Statue of Liberty!
One of the most striking landmarks in Dakar is the Statue de la Renaissance Africaine—a 160-foot (49-meter) bronze monument that is actually taller than the Statue of Liberty!
Designed by a Senegalese architect and built by North Koreans in 2010, the statue represents Africa’s rebirth. The symbolism is powerful:
- The father lifts his child toward the sky, representing a bright future through education.
- The mother points toward Gorée Island, acknowledging Africa’s painful past.
- The child is pointing towards the Statue of Liberty, representing freedom.
Pro tip: Visit in the morning to avoid crowds and the intense midday heat! The climb to the top is steep, but the panoramic view of Dakar is absolutely worth it. There is a museum inside and an elevator that takes guests up to the head of the man. The elevator can only fit 5 people, so if you go in the afternoon, you´ll definitely have to wait in a long line.
No Photos Near Government Buildings!
While driving through Dakar, we passed by government buildings with smartly clad guards doing Changing of the Guard marches. However, increased security due to the coup in Mali means no photos allowed. Be aware—security is tight, and you don’t want to risk getting into trouble.
Final Thoughts on Day Two
From the somber reflection at Gorée Island to the vibrant markets and towering symbol of Africa’s future, today was a day full of history, emotion, and culture. Dakar is a city that doesn’t just tell its story—it makes you feel it.
Can’t wait to see what Day 3 will bring!
Day Three: Exploring Dakar on My Own
Since my tour only covered the outside of the African Renaissance Monument, I took a taxi back to see the inside. Instead of climbing all those stairs, I got lucky—the driver took me up the back driveway (normally used for people with disabilities), dropping me off near the base. Inside, there's a museum that tells the story of the monument’s construction and an elevator that takes visitors up to the head of the man for an incredible 360-degree panoramic view of Dakar and close ups of the statues of the baby and woman. Entry tickets are 6,000 CFA, cash only.
Next, I headed to Our Lady of Victories Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Victoires), the largest church in Dakar and one of the most important Catholic sites in Senegal. Built in 1936, it was inaugurated by French Cardinal Jean Verdier and designed to symbolize religious harmony between Islam and Christianity. The architecture blends Art Deco elements with traditional African and Islamic influences, featuring a massive dome inspired by mosques and an Art Deco-style pipe organ. Inside, I was struck by the rare African angel statues, a powerful and uncommon representation in Catholic art. The cathedral also serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Dakar and plays a key role in religious ceremonies, including visits from popes and dignitaries.
Afterward, I walked (only a few blocks away from the cathedral) to one of my favorite fashion brands’ shops, Diarrablu. I’d seen on their IG that they opened a store in Senegal, and since I’ve been buying from them for years, I was beyond excited to try on pieces in person! The store is located on the second floor of Sens De Marrakech. Bonus: Prices in-store are cheaper than online.
@curvycurlyjourneys Visited @diarrablu Boutique in Dakar—one of my favorite designers! Loved trying on outfits and experiencing the amazing customer service. A must-visit! #Dakar #Diarrablu #FashionTravel #BustyGirlTravels ♬ One Side - Iyanya
Day Four: Museums & Traffic Hacks
For breakfast, I headed to Loman Art House, a hidden gem in Dakar that blends art, food, and nature. This boutique guesthouse and gallery is known for its eclectic metal sculptures, colorful murals, and serene atmosphere. It’s also pet-friendly—there were four dogs and two tortoises roaming the premises, and one of dogs became my little buddy. I also heard a cat meowing somewhere, but sadly, I couldn’t find him. As I explored the space, I stumbled upon an artist in the backyard workshop, carefully crafting intricate metalwork—a cool glimpse into the creative process behind the art displayed throughout the house. I also did some shopping in the on site clothing boutique, Rama Diaw. Loman Art House is the perfect spot to start the day with good food, inspiring art, and furry friends.
Next, I had planned to visit Musée de la Femme (Women’s Museum) at Place du Souvenir Africain, but unfortunately, it was closed for the week due to an event.
Instead, I hopped in a taxi to the Museum of Black Civilization (Musée des Civilisations Noires), a must-visit for anyone interested in African history and identity. Opened in 2018, this massive museum was envisioned by Senegal’s first president, Léopold Sédar Senghor, but only became a reality decades later with funding from China. It’s one of the largest museums dedicated to Black culture and history in the world, showcasing pre-colonial African civilizations, contributions of the African diaspora, and contemporary African art.
One of my favorite exhibits focused on African countries that have codified gender parity in politics and past and present female leaders—a refreshing and empowering perspective! Another highlight was the repatriated African artifacts section, showcasing items that were stolen during colonial rule and returned to Senegal. Behind the museum is a mural dedicated to victims of racist violence such as Rodney King, Philando Castille, and Amadou Diallo.
Pro tip: The area around the Museum of Black Civilization has terrible traffic. If you’re struggling to get a taxi, walk a few blocks away where traffic is less chaotic—it’ll be much easier to catch a ride.
Finally, I had dinner at a fantastic waterfront seafood spot, Restaurant Lagon 1. The decor was interesting with fishing rods, water features, and windows that look like ones you'd see on a boat.
Day 5 in Dakar – Hair, Hustles & Jollof Wars
I started my morning with a 10 AM crochet braid appointment at Sagnse Boutique, a salon just down the street from Loman Art House. My former student recommended it, and I’m so glad they did! The salon had great customer service, and I loved how two stylists worked on my hair at the same time, cutting my time in half. 3.5 hours later, I walked out with a fresh new style that I absolutely loved.
From there, I took a Yango to the Mosque of the Divinity, one of the city’s most striking religious landmarks. Built in 1997, the mosque was constructed by an imam who claimed to have received a divine vision instructing him to build it. Located on the beachfront cliffs, it features twin minarets towering over the Atlantic, making it a breathtaking sight. The imam who built it and his wife are buried in the mausoleum on the premises.
Before heading to the mosque, I made sure to dress modestly—long sleeves, a long skirt, and the scarf I received as a gift with my purchase from Diarrablu. Mosques require women to cover their hair, and I wanted to be respectful.
While I was admiring the mosque, a man approached me, offered some historical facts, and took photos of me with my phone—only to later ask for money claiming that he was going to give it to the mosque (yeah right!). I genuinely didn’t have much cash on me, and he was visibly angry that I couldn’t give him more. Just as I was wrapping up, another guy approached, but after a brief conversation, he said he had to go in for prayer and would come back. I knew the hustle and wanted no parts, so I finished taking my own photos and dipped.
Next stop: Diarrablu! I had ordered a dress earlier in my trip, but they didn’t have my size in-store. Luckily, they offered to make it to order and have it delivered by courier—such a cool perk of shopping locally! The store clerk, Fatimatu, was incredibly sweet. I don’t speak French, and she didn’t speak English, so we used a translation app to communicate, and it worked perfectly.
For dinner, I went to Restaurant Chez Loutcha (cash only), a highly recommended spot for Senegalese jollof rice. My tour guide swore it was one of the best in Dakar, and since I’ve only had Nigerian jollof, I was excited to compare. If you don’t know, there’s a serious rivalry between West African countries over who makes the best jollof—Senegal, Nigeria, Ghana, and beyond all claim the crown. I won’t pick sides just yet, but let’s just say Senegalese jollof did not disappoint.
Another day in Dakar, another adventure!
Dakar Diaries: Day 6 – A Relaxing Final Day of Shopping & Dining
My final day in Dakar was all about taking it easy, with no major plans—just some last-minute shopping and a fantastic meal before heading to the airport.
I started the day with lunch at La Fourchette, a stylish restaurant that offers a business lunch special. The atmosphere was refined but relaxed, and the food was excellent. If you’re ever in Dakar, I highly recommend it—it’s a great spot for a delicious meal in a chic setting.
After lunch, I decided to check out Nahyel Boutique, a store I had spotted while riding in a taxi. The window display caught my eye, so I looked them up on Instagram and liked what I saw. Once inside, I was drawn to their beautifully crafted handbags and dresses. I found a few pieces I loved, but as always, the fit was tricky—either too small or the bust didn’t sit right (story of my life). There was one jumpsuit I absolutely adored, but the torso was too short for me.
One of the coolest things about high street fashion in Senegal is that many boutiques offer alterations or even custom orders. The store clerk called their tailor, who took my measurements, and they agreed to make the jumpsuit to my specifications. Such a great option for anyone who struggles with off-the-rack sizing!
Next, I stopped by Sassy Chic Boutique, another stylish shop with a well-curated selection. I found one jumpsuit I really liked, but unfortunately, they didn’t have my size. Still, I loved exploring the local fashion scene—Senegalese boutiques have a unique blend of contemporary and traditional influences, and the craftsmanship is top-tier.
After a satisfying day of shopping and discovering local designers, I headed back to my Airbnb to pack up. The drive to Blaise Diagne International Airport takes about an hour with no traffic, and with the recommendation to arrive at least two hours before a flight, I made sure to leave with plenty of time. Dakar has terrible traffic, so during rush hour, it could take up to 2 hours.
And just like that, my Dakar adventure came to an end! From exploring vibrant markets to discovering hidden boutiques, experiencing Senegalese jollof, and taking in the city’s rich history, it was an unforgettable trip. Until next time, Dakar!
Final Thoughts on Dakar
Dakar stole my heart. The city has a unique energy—vibrant, welcoming, and refreshingly low on the extreme hustle culture you find in places like Egypt or even Morocco. One thing that stood out was how honest and fair the Yango and taxi drivers were after we settled on a price. Unlike in some other cities where drivers might try to aggressively renegotiate fares mid-ride, that never happened here.
The food was incredible—from Senegalese jollof to fresh seafood, and even international options, every meal felt like a treat. But what really surprised me was the high street fashion scene. Brands like Diarrablu, Nahyel, and Rama Diaw offer unique, high-quality designs that are reasonably priced compared to shopping in London, NYC, or Paris. Senegalese fashion is both modern and deeply rooted in tradition, and I loved seeing that balance in the boutiques.
Safety was another highlight. I never felt unsafe, even when walking at night. I saw young women out alone, and my tour guide mentioned that many African leaders own homes in Dakar so their children can go out without fear of kidnapping. I had a few catcalls, but it was never aggressive or threatening. There’s a beautiful corniche along the coast, with outdoor workout equipment, and in the evenings, it’s full of young men and some women staying active. Unfortunately, some construction companies illegally dump rubble along parts of the coastline at night to avoid detection, which is a shame because the corniche is otherwise stunning.
I didn’t get to explore areas outside of Dakar this time, but I heard great things about them:
- N’Gor Beach – A laid-back beach on N’Gor Island, just off the coast of Dakar. It’s a popular spot for surfing, relaxing, and enjoying local seafood.
- Saly – A lively resort town about 80 km south of Dakar. It’s known for its golden beaches, beach clubs, and water sports. Many people go there for a weekend getaway.
- Saint-Louis – Not to be confused with St. Louis, Missouri, this historic town in northern Senegal was the former colonial capital of French West Africa. It’s famous for its charming, colorful colonial architecture, vibrant arts scene, and annual jazz festival. The city sits on an island in the Senegal River, giving it a unique atmosphere.
- Lac Rose (Pink Lake) – It’s about an hour outside of Dakar, and while it looks beautiful in photos, I didn’t feel that it was worth the trip as a solo traveler just to see a pink lake. Instead, I preferred exploring the city itself, taking in Dakar’s daily life, culture, and vibrant neighborhoods.
Even though French is the main language, I managed to get by just fine with translation apps and a mix of English and hand gestures. I had such a great time that I know I’ll be back. Next time, I’d love to stay closer to the western coast or in the south near the Cathedral of Our Lady of Victories. While my Airbnb was nice, it wasn’t near anything, and every trip required a 20+ minute taxi ride. Though taxis are affordable ($3.50 or less per ride), time is money, and I’d rather be within walking distance of more attractions.
Dakar, I’ll see you again soon!
