Manila: History, Multiculturalism in the Pearl of the Orient

Fort Santiago Manila

When I booked a quick 3-day weekend trip to Manila, I wasn’t sure what to expect — especially since a cyclone was rolling through the region. But in true Southeast Asian fashion, life carried on as usual. A little typhoon or cyclone stops nothing here.

Manila is loud, layered, and full of surprises — a mix of centuries-old Spanish architecture, chaotic traffic, modern skyscrapers, and warm, welcoming people. It’s not the easiest city to navigate, but if you plan wisely, you’ll uncover its charm.

Getting Around Manila

Before diving into the sights, a few travel tips: Manila isn’t very walkable outside of Bonifacio Global City (BGC). There’s a light rail and small buses, but I found ride-sharing to be the easiest option. I avoided taxis altogether (too many scam stories).

Grab is reliable and you can pay by credit card. InDrive also works well — it’s cheaper than Grab, though it’s cash only. Manila is mostly a cash economy, so bring enough cash for money changers (best rates at malls or banks) or use an ATM card that works internationally (verify with your bank first).

One big warning from my tour guide: avoid the tuk-tuks. They’re notorious for scamming tourists — overcharging or taking “detours” to overpriced souvenir shops. Also, traffic is no joke — some of the worst in Asia — so give yourself plenty of time to get anywhere.

Exploring Intramuros & Chinatown: Manila’s Historic Core

The heart of old Manila lies in Intramuros, a historic walled city built by the Spanish in the late 1500s. But before heading there, I joined a GuruWalk tour with the fantastic Xyza, who started our day in Binondo, the world’s oldest Chinatown.

Our tour began on the top floor of the Lucky Chinatown Mall, which houses The Binondo Museum that gives fascinating context to the area. It even features a recreation of an opium den — yes, you read that right! During the colonial period, opium use was legal, and the government actually issued licenses to operate these dens.

Opium Den Binondo Museum
Opium Den - Binondo Museum

From there, we sampled street food favorites, including famous egg tarts (natas). They’re less sweet than the Portuguese version, with a lighter custard and perfectly flaky crust — the ideal walking snack.

Manila China Town
Me at Chinatown Manila wearing the Foundation Midi Dress

Binondo: The World’s Oldest Chinatown

Binondo was established in 1594, making it the oldest Chinatown in the world. The Spanish created it to segregate Chinese migrants while forcing them to convert to Christianity — a strange blend of discrimination and dependence, since Chinese merchants were vital to the economy.

Xyza took us through narrow alleys lined with bakeries and dumpling shops, and we stopped at Dong Bei Dumplings, famous for their handmade dumplings and noodles. Lord Stow's Bakery is famous for its egg tarts, which are less sweet than the Portuguese variety. She also suggested I pick up some Ho-Land Bakery treats as gifts for my Filipino friends.

Binondo Church (Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz) — the historic church in Chinatown

Just across from the hustle and bustle of Ongpin Street stands the Binondo Church, officially known as the Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. Originally built by Dominican friars in 1596 to serve Manila’s growing Chinese Christian community, the church has been destroyed and rebuilt several times due to earthquakes and wars. The current structure, completed after World War II, combines baroque and neoclassical architecture, with its iconic octagonal bell tower being one of the few remnants of the original design. It’s also significant as the home parish of St. Lorenzo Ruiz, the first Filipino saint, who was born in Binondo and later martyred in Japan. Standing inside, you can feel the deep layers of faith and history that still anchor this vibrant district.

Binondo Church
Binondo Church

Intramuros & the Story of José Rizal

After our Chinatown tour, I crossed the river into Intramuros, Manila’s walled city. Xyza had shared the powerful story of José Rizal, the Philippines’ national hero — a writer, doctor, and reformist who sought peaceful change under Spanish rule. His novels criticized colonial abuse and inspired revolution. For that, he was imprisoned in Fort Santiago and executed in 1896. Many of his painting are featured at The National Museum of Fine Arts. Sadly, I was unable to visit because I ran out of time on Sunday and most museums are closed on Mondays.

Walking through Fort Santiago is both beautiful and sobering. You can trace Rizal’s final footsteps, marked in bronze from his cell to the place of execution. The fort also became a prison and torture site during WWII, when thousands of Filipinos were killed under Japanese occupation.

On a lighter note: teachers get a 50% discount on entry, so if you’re one, bring your school ID!

The Churches of Intramuros

Intramuros was once home to seven grand churches, earning it the nickname “Little Rome.” Sadly, most were destroyed during World War II, when Manila became one of the most devastated cities in Asia after Warsaw.

Only San Agustin Church survived the bombings. Built in 1607, it’s the oldest stone church in the Philippines and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside, the trompe l’oeil frescoes on the ceiling are breathtaking — but photography isn’t allowed, so you’ll just have to see them for yourself.

Nearby stands the Manila Cathedral, which has been rebuilt several times due to fires, earthquakes, and war. The current structure, completed in 1958, is both a national landmark and a symbol of resilience.

Casa Manila, Bahay Tsinoy & Remembering the Past

Inside Intramuros, I visited the Casa Manila Museum, a gorgeous recreation of a colonial Spanish home, and Bahay Tsinoy, a museum about the Chinese-Filipino community.

Casa Manila
Casa Manila

Bahay Tsinoy does a wonderful job showing how Chinese immigrants helped shape the Philippines — from trade during the Manila-Acapulco Galleon route (connecting Asia to Mexico and Europe) to contributions in politics and art. The top floor has a cool exhibit of famous Chinese-Filipinos, including former President Corazon Aquino, the country’s first female president.

A park close to the museum had a moving outdoor exhibit about Japanese atrocities during WWII, a somber reminder of what Manila endured.

And scattered among all this history? Friendly cats lounging lazily on ancient stones — unofficial guardians of the old city.

During the tour earlier that day Xyza mentioned that the national flower of the Philippines is the sampaguita (jasmine), and Ilustrado Restaurant is the only place in Manila that sell it as an ice cream flavor. It didn't disappoint. Interestingly, when I was doing research, I saw that a restaurant in Orlando also sells it.

Scam Alert

A warning: Because Intramuros has a lot of tourist sites, there are scammers everywhere. Avoid people selling tours. Official tour guides have IDs and are usually arranged beforehand. I witnessed some foreigners with a "tour guide" who was dressed sloppily wearing sport flip flops and barely able to speak English. 

Modern Manila: BGC and Beyond

After a day of exploring history, I switched gears and headed to Bonifacio Global City (BGC) — Manila’s shiny, modern district filled with skyscrapers, international restaurants, and public art.

Unlike most of Manila, BGC is walkable. It’s clean, organized, and has proper sidewalks (a rarity here). I wandered around Ayala Mall in Makati City, where luxury boutiques sit beside local brands, and stopped at Angkan Café, a chic spot with creative seating and a calm vibe — perfect for a caffeine recharge. I ordered an ube (purple sweet potato) Spanish latte. Ube is very popular in the Philippines, which was a pleasant surprise. I thought that it was only a thing in Japan.

You’ll also notice that banks and high-end buildings have security guards with large rifles. It’s startling at first, but completely normal here.

Little Joys: Postcards, Bamboo Bikes, and Food

I’m old-school and still send postcards from my trips. They were surprisingly hard to find — only available at the airport and Fort Santiago — but mailing them was delightfully cheap: ₱15 (about $0.25 USD) each!

While in Intramuros, you can also try one of the famous bamboo bike tours — they’re made from sustainable materials and are a fun, eco-friendly way to see the walled city.

No trip to the Philippines is complete without trying halo-halo, the country’s most iconic dessert. I stopped by Bebang Halo-Halo, a modern dessert shop known for its creative takes on this Filipino classic. Halo-halo literally means “mix-mix” in Tagalog, and it’s exactly that — a colorful, icy concoction of sweetened fruits, jellies, beans, leche flan, purple yam (ube), and shaved ice, all topped with evaporated milk. I’ve had halo-halo in the U.S., but the version in Manila was completely different — creamier, less sugary, and somehow more balanced, with textures that made every bite fun.

Bebang Halo Halo

For comfort food, I was delighted to find BonChon, a Korean fried chicken chain, in Manila. I love BonChon in the U.S., but the Filipino version has a distinct twist, the chicken glaze is lighter and the flavor a bit sweeter, perfectly suited to local tastes. I also tried Jollibee, the beloved Filipino fast-food chain, but I have to admit, BonChon still has my heart.

Final Thoughts

Manila is a city of contrasts — historical yet modern, chaotic yet kind. It takes a little patience to appreciate, but once you do, it’s unforgettable.

From eating dumplings in Binondo and learning about José Rizal, to sipping coffee in BGC and walking through Intramuros, Manila offers a blend of grit, beauty, and heart that stays with you.

Three or four days is plenty to see the highlights — but next time, I’ll be venturing beyond the capital to explore more of the Philippines’ islands and natural beauty.

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