I took the train from Fez to Marrakech. I opted for a first class ticket, which I purchased on ONCF's website, for more space and comfort. It took six hours. Note that the trains are old and have no power outlets.
Marrakech is a fast-paced, vibrant, and diverse city, and I knew I had to return. My first trip left me wanting more—especially since the Yves Saint Laurent Museum was closed during my last visit. This time, I made sure to check out places I had missed before, and I also stayed in the Gueliz neighborhood, which gave me a completely different experience from my first stay in the Medina.
A Day in the Atlas Mountains
I kicked off my trip with an unforgettable camel ride and hike through the Atlas Mountains. It was one of the most well-organized and fun tours I’ve ever been on, offering breathtaking views and a peaceful contrast to the hustle and bustle of Marrakech.
Free Walking Tour of Marrakech
I also joined a fantastic Free Walking Tour of Marrakech, and I’m so glad I did. The tour guide was a walking encyclopedia, sharing fascinating historical facts, hidden gems, and local insights. It was the perfect way to explore the heart of the Medina and discover the city’s rich history, architecture, and culture. Highly recommended for anyone looking to get an authentic feel of the city!
Exploring Marrakech’s Must-See Sights
- Yves Saint Laurent Museum – Finally made it here! The museum showcases the iconic designer’s legacy, but it was smaller than expected, especially for the price. Definitely book your ticket online in advance to avoid long lines.
- Museum of the Water Civilization – A fascinating look at the history of water management in Morocco, which plays a crucial role in the country's development.
- Koutoubia Mosque – The largest mosque in Marrakech, known for its stunning 12th-century architecture. While non-Muslims can’t enter, it’s still worth admiring from the outside.
- Saadian Tombs – Dating back to the 16th century, these beautifully restored tombs are a glimpse into Morocco’s rich history.
- El Badi Palace – Once a grand palace, now a fascinating ruin with impressive views and a sense of history around every corner.
Queen Lalla and the Saadian Dynasty
The Saadian Tombs in Marrakech are a masterpiece of Moroccan architecture and a lasting tribute to the power and legacy of the Saadian dynasty. Discovered in 1917, they are adorned with intricate zellij tiles, carved cedar wood, and vibrant stucco, showcasing the opulence of this golden age. Among those buried there are Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, known as "The Golden," and several members of the royal family, including his mother, Lalla Messaouda, and his sons. The site reflects both the dynasty’s wealth and the artistic sophistication of 16th-century Morocco.
During this period, figures like Lalla Aouda Saadia played a pivotal role in shaping history. She united Arab and Berber tribes from the Atlas Mountains to resist European forces, particularly the Portuguese and Spanish, who were trying to expand their influence. This coalition of mountain tribes set aside their rivalries to fight a common enemy.
The Saadians’ tactics were extraordinary. Berber snake charmers from the mountains contributed venom to poison the archers’ arrows, creating a deadly edge in combat. Lalla herself masterminded the training of camels to kill European horses, using the animals to disrupt enemy formations, which allowed the archers to then strike with their venomous arrows. These innovations allowed the Saadians to turn the tide against more heavily armed invaders.
With these incredible stories and the grandeur of the Saadian Tombs, there is, of course, a movie about this called The Battle of the Three Kings. Picture the tombs as a backdrop, the uniting of tribes in the mountains, and the intensity of battle scenes—poisoned arrows flying, stampeding camels, and a fierce queen leading her people. Epic!
Where to Eat in Marrakech
- Lily Billy – A stylish spot with great food.
- Azalai Urban Souk – Home to the best crème brûlée taco dessert I’ve ever had!
- Café Clock Marrakech – Famous for its storytelling evenings, where local storytellers share traditional Moroccan tales.
- Beldi Fusion Kitchen – Stylish restaurant with high quality food and great people watching from the terrace.
- Snack La Place – A hole in the wall that is frequented by locals. Located in the medina, it offers fast food at cheap prices.
Shopping in Marrakech
During my trip to Marrakech, I couldn’t resist visiting Herbalism to buy some authentic Moroccan products. Argan oil, known for its many beauty benefits, is much more affordable in Morocco than outside. I also got to try prickly pear oil and cream, often called “Moroccan Botox,” and it’s a game changer for skincare! It’s on the pricier side, especially when bought abroad, so I made sure to stock up while I was in town. A tip—don’t be afraid to haggle a bit; you might just get a better deal. I also returned to Warda La Mouche, the store where I bought a tunic two years ago. It’s a cozy spot, and the resident cat was napping in the same chair as last time, which felt like a comforting déjà vu. Unfortunately, this year, I couldn’t find anything that fit, which only reminded me of why I started Exclusively Kristen—busty girl shopping woes are real!
Staying in Gueliz: A Different Side of Marrakech
This time, I stayed in Gueliz, which was recommended by a former British coworker who is married to a Moroccan, and I loved it. It’s modern, less touristy, and much more relaxed than the Medina. No one harassed me to buy anything or tried to drag me to their “friend’s shop.” This neighborhood is home to expats and wealthy locals, with plenty of chic restaurants and great shopping. It’s also super convenient—just a 10-minute walk to the train station, a 20-minute walk to the Medina. A taxi from Gueliz to the Medina is about $1. Just make sure to insist the driver turns on the meter! One driver refused, haughtily asking, "How much do you pay the others?" I responded, "I pay what the meter says." I simply got out and found another.
Marrakech never disappoints, and this second visit gave me a fresh perspective on the city. I highly recommend staying in Gueliz if you want a break from the Medina’s intensity while still being close to all the action. Until next time, Marrakech!
