I didn’t plan to go to Sofia. I had opened Google Flights and did not put a destination and booked the cheapest flight that wasn't Morocco. About a month later, I landed in Bulgaria. I flew Bulgaria Air (the plane was old, but the chocolate they gave us was surprisingly good), and that spontaneous choice dropped me into a city with one of the most fascinating, layered histories I’ve come across.
Bulgaria’s timeline reads like a historical epic: from ancient Thracian tribes to Roman conquest (with a massive earthquake in 447 CE that helped usher in the empire’s decline), followed by centuries of Byzantine and then Ottoman rule. After nearly 500 years under the Ottomans, Bulgaria regained independence and became a monarchy. That chapter ended with the rise of communism after World War II. One of the most curious modern facts? The son of Tsar Boris III, who may have been assassinated on Hitler’s orders, fled to Spain during the Soviet takeover, and decades later returned to become Bulgaria’s Prime Minister. He has since returned to Spain. It’s that kind of wild, complex history that made my time in Sofia both surprising and unforgettable.
Getting Around My Airbnb host tipped me off to the TaxiMe app—it came in handy for a 4 AM airport ride since the trains don’t run that early. But honestly, Sofia is super walkable, and public transit is both cheap and efficient.
Serdica Ancient Complex
History Everywhere
- Saint Nedelya Cathedral was the site of the largest mass murder in Bulgaria’s history. In 1925, communists tried to assassinate King Boris III during a funeral by putting explosives on the roof. He was late, but 200 others weren’t so lucky. It’s free to enter, but photos cost 5 lev.
- Serdica Ancient Complex is scattered throughout the city. I loved hearing the faint rumble of the metro beneath my feet while exploring ancient Roman streets and lead pipes (which apparently contributed to infertility… the Romans even said water tasted better from terracotta).
- Arena di Serdica Boutique Hotel (RIP—closed after COVID) was built on top of one of the largest Roman arenas in the Balkans. A total travesty, but the ruins are still visible through the glass.
- Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built after the fall of the Ottomans, when churches could finally be larger than mosques. I stumbled in during mass and learned Orthodox Christians cross themselves right to left, unlike Catholics.
- Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker is stunning, peaceful, and strictly no photos inside.
- Rotunda Church of St. George is the oldest building in Sofia, dating back to the 4th century. Originally a Roman baptistery, it was intentionally hidden in a courtyard behind government buildings built during the Soviet Era, and surrounded by ancient Serdica ruins. Inside, you'll find beautiful frescoes from the 10th to 14th centuries. Some were plastered over during Ottoman rule and only rediscovered later. No photos allowed, but the atmosphere is deeply spiritual. It’s still an active church. I happened to walk in during Orthodox mass—an unexpected and moving experience in such a historic place.
- Church of St. Petka of the Saddlers was built in the 14th century. It sits below street level, next to the Serdica metro and Roman ruins. It’s named for the saddlers’ guild—one of the richest in the city. They could have built something grand, but Ottoman law restricted churches from being taller than mosques. Inside, there are layered frescoes from different centuries. Some believe Bulgaria’s national hero, Vasil Levski, may be buried there.
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Museum of Socialist Art which has the iconic red star from the top of the Communist HQ. No Stalin statues in sight. I've been to Soviet statue graveyards in Budapest and Tallinn. The one in Tallinn is the best so far.
- The Red Flat which is a fully restored and immersive 1980s communist-era apartment museum where you can explore what everyday life was like during that time. It’s audio-guided, and tickets are sold online or at the Gifted Urban Art & Culture Hub nearby. Definitely worth it if you’re into lived history.
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Regional History Museum of Sofia is housed in a beautifully restored Ottoman-era bathhouse, the museum highlights Bulgarian culture and traditions through folk costumes, crafts, and household items. What stood out most was how the exhibits are creatively displayed against the backdrop of the original baths—arched ceilings, marble, and tile work.
Surprisingly, there’s no section on the Communist era. - National History Museum is one of the largest museums in the Balkans, located in the former residence of the last Communist leader Todor Zhivkov. Covers everything from prehistoric artifacts and Thracian treasures to the medieval Bulgarian empire and royal artifacts. Again, oddly, there’s nothing on the Communist period—a noticeable omission given the country’s 45-year history under that regime.
St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Museum of Socialist Art
I did the 365 Communist Walking Tour and highly recommend it. We visited major Soviet-era landmarks, including the former headquarters of the Bulgarian Communist Party and the HQ of the State Security (basically the Bulgarian KGB). Our guide told the fascinating and chilling story of Georgi Markov, a Bulgarian dissident who fled to London and worked for the BBC, exposing the realities of the communist regime. He was assassinated in 1978 with a poisoned umbrella tip on Waterloo Bridge—one of the most notorious killings of the Cold War era. We also stopped at the Monument to the Soviet Army located in Prince's Garden Park, which is now roped off due to constant graffiti. It was wild to walk through places so full of recent, complicated history.
Day Trips & Spiritual Sites
I joined a day tour to Rila Monastery and Boyana Church, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Rila Monastery had a serene, spiritual energy (plus a friendly white/tortoise shell monastery cat). Also, it is the burial site of Tsar Boris III. My tour guide had a photo of himself with Boris' son who was recently at the monastery visiting the gravesite. Boyana Church's 13th-century frescos were breathtaking. Queen Eleonora, wife of Tsar Ferdinand, is buried nearby—she was beloved for her humanitarian work.
Rila Monastery
Easter Nail Flex, Gaming Nostalgia & Boutique Finds
I couldn’t get a nail appointment before my trip, so I booked one at Pomodoro Nails in Sofia—and they nailed it (pun totally intended). Eastern European nail techs are unmatched. The best I ever had was a Georgian woman trained by a Russian when I lived in Qatar. She was so good, I had to book her at least 3 weeks in advance.
Afterward, I treated myself with a trip to the Retro Gaming Bar, where I played Mario 2 (my all-time fave), Mortal Kombat, and Contra. I ordered the Kirby cocktail—a mix of pink gin, raspberry liqueur, coconut syrup, raspberry syrup, and milk. It was sweet, creamy, and totally delicious. A nostalgic night with a tipsy twist.
Retro Gaming Bar
I also shopped at Sassa Bjorg, a local fashion house. They didn’t have my size in-store, but they offered to custom-make the piece, adjust the hem, and ship it to me. This is exactly why I love supporting small boutiques—service that feels personal and tailored (literally) for a fraction of what it would cost in Paris or London.
Also made a stop at Gifted Urban Art & Culture Hub—a super cool gallery and shop where you can buy your Red Flat tickets. They sell retro postcards and a great selection of locally made chocolate bars. I couldn’t resist flavors like white chocolate with rose—I definitely brought some of those home.
I stumbled upon an outdoor market in Central Park, right in front of the National Palace of Culture, and discovered a unique jewelry designer called V-tory. What impressed me most was the quality of the French hooks on the earrings—they were elegant and high-end. So often, I see beautifully designed earrings paired with cheap, basic hooks that ruin the whole look. But not here—every detail felt intentional and elevated.
Unfortunately, Mental Syndicate was closed the day I planned to visit, but I’ve heard great things about their unique leather backpacks, aprons, and coffee—definitely on my list for next time. I also stopped by Art Shop Handmade, which was sadly closed as well, but two adorable cats were lounging inside. They looked so friendly and seemed like they were hoping I’d open the door so they could slip outside. It totally reminded me of the Cat at My Romanian Store—such a nostalgic little moment.
Art Shop Handmade
Food Highlights
- rCurry – legit Sri Lankan fast food.
- Izzy’s Coffee and Brunch – berry bowl was chef’s kiss.
- StandArt Restaurant – Nina Simone on the playlist = instant vibe.
- Martines Specialty Coffee – great coffee. Grabbed whole beans to take home.
- Happy Bar & Grill – fried mac & cheese balls. Like a local TGI Fridays but better.
- KOMAT – upscale, worth every lev.
- Padre – refined & cozy.
- Lily’s Food Place – no-frills, cash-only, delicious sandwiches.
- Raketa Rakia Bar – smelled the BBQ from down the block. Meat was fall-off-the-bone good.
- Aureline Café – fancy Upper East Side vibes with a boutique. Try the white chocolate raspberry pastry.
- Lavele Kitchen and Bar – laidback, stylish, great service. I loved the white chocolate and pistachio cheesecake.
- Shtastlivetsa - Vitoshka – sit inside to take in the gorgeous traditional décor. I accidentally went to the one at Sofia Center, which was fully booked, but I had made the reservation for the one in the city center. Honestly, the one at Sofia Center had better decor. Be sure to make a reservation.
- Staria Chinar – one of my favorites in Sofia. Located in an old house with early 20th century charm. The lamb and the honey blueberry cake were amazing. I also tried their flavored rakia, which is fruit brandy popular in the Balkans.
- Beyond Brkfst – a cozy and stylish spot serving up modern brunch with a creative twist. Great coffee, fresh ingredients, and an airy atmosphere—perfect for starting a slow Sofia morning.
- Better Specialty Coffee - very high quality coffee.
Extra Notes
- Tenebris, the dining-in-the-dark restaurant, was on my list—but they’re booked a full month out. If you want to go, book early!
- I also did the Sofia Jewish Free Tour—really informative and moving. Highly recommended. The tour guide shared a documentary that he made interviewing Bulgarian Jews who lived through the Nazi and the Soviet periods.
- Yoni Wellness – because when I travel anywhere with hammams or hot springs, I’m booking that steam session and massage. Highly recommend.
- At one of the entrances to the courtyard where the Rotunda Church is located, you’ll find two Presidential guards standing watch. There’s a ceremonial changing of the guard at the top of every hour
- A lot of people smoke and e-cigarettes' are allowed in restaurants.
Sofia Synagogue
The Vibe Sofia is affordable, easy to explore, and full of hidden layers—from Roman ruins underfoot to Cold War relics and beautiful Orthodox churches. The people were kind, and most spoke English, which made navigating solo a breeze. If you like your cities with grit, history, and nail salons—put Sofia on your radar. If I had more time, I would've definitely visited some hot springs, Plovdiv (second largest city in Bulgaria), and the Buzludzha Communist Monument. Locals raved about the country's nature, hiking, and skiing. Therefore, hopefully, I will have a chance to return and experience all that Bulgaria has to offer outside of the city.