After a busy two days of work in France, I asked to be flown home on Sunday instead of Friday, giving me a little time to revisit Paris. I first visited the city back in 2007 and did all the classic things—Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Notre Dame. But this time, I wanted a deeper, more personal experience.
My main goal was to visit the Musée d'Orsay, housed in a stunning Beaux-Arts train station built between 1898 and 1900. The museum is known for its vast collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist masterpieces, and art deco furniture. I went on Saturday afternoon around 3:30 PM, late, thanks to work exhaustion and sleeping in. The line was long but moved quickly. Thanks to my International Teacher Identity Card (ITIC), I received free admission, but it did mean waiting in the general line since the pre-booked time slot option didn’t offer free educator tickets.
Sudanese Man in Algerian Dress marble bust at the D'Orsay Museum
With just a couple of hours before closing at 6 PM, I only scratched the surface. So I returned the next morning at 10 AM, and the line was long again, but totally worth it. The marble statues were stunning, and I was especially drawn to the painting Ramesses in His Harem. The museum is a must-visit, even if you’ve done the Louvre.
Ramesses in his Harem, painting at the D'Orsay Museum
During my work trip, I stayed in a hotel that bizarrely charged €2 for luggage locker storage, which is definitely not the norm in my experience. Since I had to cover my own lodging over the weekend, I moved to Piapia Hotel, which I loved. The single room was compact, but the decor was charming, coffee was free, and the staff was genuinely kind. It’s not in the center, but it's a quick 2-minute walk to the Line 1 metro, which connects directly to major sites like the Louvre.
I also made time to eat well...this is Paris, after all. I had brunch at Le Ju (€22, a great deal by Paris standards), and dinner at Brasserie Dubillot, where I enjoyed veal fingers and an incredible hazelnut dessert. Dubillot fills up quickly, so definitely make a reservation. For something different, I went to BMK Paris-Bamako, a West African restaurant where I ordered baobab juice and they also had bissap, both of which I discovered during my trip to Senegal and are new favorites of mine. They even sold baobab powder to make my own drinks at home, though it was sadly sold out.
One thing I love about France is how diverse it is. I always stock up on Black haircare products while I’m there, and the variety of African and Asian cuisine never disappoints. While Paris isn’t my favorite French city (that honor goes to Toulouse), it still has so much to offer, especially if you're open to exploring beyond the tourist trail.
A highlight was a dinner river cruise that passed the Eiffel Tower, which is still magical, even the second time around. Another fun moment: when I ordered a café au lait and the waiter told me it was €4 after seeing my €2 coin, I laughed to myself and thought, “Yep, definitely not in Spain anymore.”
Me on a Seine River Cruise
On the cultural side, a Paris-based colleague recommended The Stone Face by William Gardner Smith, a novel that explores the experience of being Black in France during the Algerian War. It’s now on my reading list and has deepened my growing interest in North African and post-colonial history, a passion sparked by living in Qatar and traveling across the MENA region. Many Black American artists and intellectuals, including Josephine Baker and James Baldwin, found acceptance and respect in Paris during the mid-20th century. However, Smith writes about the stark contrast between that acceptance and the discrimination faced by North Africans at the time, leaving him conflicted about his place in French society.
Despite my mixed feelings about Charles de Gaulle Airport, I lucked out with flights in and out of Orly, which is closer and far less chaotic. That alone made the quick Paris getaway much smoother. Au revoir, Paris!