Macau is a city shaped by trade, faith, and fortune. Once a small fishing village, it became the first and longest-lasting European colony in Asia, remaining under Portuguese administration for over 400 years before returning to China in 1999. Today, that layered history is visible everywhere—from Jesuit church ruins and Chinese temples to pastel colonial squares and neon-lit casino towers. Macau is the only place in China where gambling is legal, which is why it became the world’s largest gambling hub, surpassing Las Vegas in revenue years ago. Even on Christmas there was a lot of people.
The government taxes casinos heavily (35%-40% of gross gaming revenue) and redistributes part of that revenue through an annual cash handout program (the Wealth Partaking Scheme). It’s a rare place where colonial history, modern excess, and social welfare coexist.
I met up with my friend who is Portuguese and his friend who is Macanese (from Macau and a descendent of Portuguese settlers). My Portuguese friend was trying to speak Portuguese to people, but no one understood him. We learned that most of the Portuguese descendants left Macau in the early 2000s, but some are returning for better job prospects compared to Portugal. I inquired about authentic Macanese food, and learned that there were few of these restaurants left. Overall, most of the tourists in Macau were from the Mainland or Hong Kong, and it seemed like the only remnants of the country's Portuguese presence were the bilingual street signs and old colonial buddings.
Getting Around & Paying for Things
Macau is very easy to get around via public transport. I used Alipay HK everywhere without issue. Tourists can purchase a Macau Pass and load it with cash, which is highly recommended. Important note: not all places accept credit cards, so Alipay, cash, or a Macau Pass is essential.
Getting There from Hong Kong
I took the TurboJet Ferry from Hong Kong. Be sure to arrive before your scheduled departure—if you’re late, the system won’t accept your ticket and you’ll need to buy another one. If you arrive early, you can often stand by for an earlier ferry at no extra charge. Other options include the bus over the Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge or even a helicopter if you’re feeling indulgent.
TurboJet Ferry Miniature at the Maritime Museum
Casinos & Modern Macau
Even if you’re not a gambler, Macau’s glitzy casino complexes on the Cotai Strip (like the Vegas Strip) are fascinating to see. I visited the following:
- The Venetian – Massive, theatrical, and has gondolas and canals like in Venice
- City of Dreams – Home to House of Dancing Water
- The Londoner – Over-the-top British theming with great people-watching
- The Parisian – Yes, there’s an Eiffel Tower replica
My friend was impressed with MGM and there's a figure 8 ferris wheel at Studio City. Outside of the Wynn is Performance Lake, which has a fountain show every 30 minutes. Inside City of Dreams is the show House of Dancing Water. A colleague described it as like Cirque du Soleil, but better. I've never seen Cirque du Soleil, so I can neither agree nor disagree, but the show was amazing. Pro tip: guests can sit anywhere to get a good view because of the circular layout, so it isn't necessary to buy the most expensive tickets.
My Macanese friend said that nightlife, even for locals, is in the casinos. While most things close at 8pm, the many casino shops are open. Casinos are usually in 5 star hotels with high end shopping and dining. There are also dance clubs, and once you've danced the night away, the casinos offer free shuttle busses to different parts of Macau including the airport. These shuttles are open to the public and you do not have to stay at the hotel to use them.
Cotai Strip
City of Dreams
Museums, Gardens & Cultural Stops
If you’re interested in Macau beyond the casinos, there are cultural stops worth seeing—but it’s best to go in with the right expectations.
- St. Paul's Ruins – The most iconic site in Macau, the 17th century ruins of a Catholic religious complex
- Macau Museum – Helpful for basic historical context, but fairly surface level
- Monte Fort – Worth it mainly for the views over the city
- Senado Square – Iconic and lively, though more atmosphere than education
- Lou Lim Ieoc Garden – A peaceful break from the crowds
- Macau Tea Culture House – Beautifully preserved, but light on detailed interpretation
- Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial House – Interesting historically, but limited explanatory depth
- Taipa Houses Museum – Restored colonial homes with rotating exhibits
- Guia Fortress – A 17th-century colonial military fort, chapel, and lighthouse complex
St. Paul's Ruins
Me at Guia Fort wearing The Foundation Midi Dress. It was a steep hike to the fort. Zero sweat stress and the breathable cotton kept me cool and polished the whole way up.
Senado Square (looks like Lisbon)
Where I Ate
Macau’s food scene remains one of its strongest draws, especially when it comes to Macanese cuisine—a unique blend of Portuguese and Chinese influences that’s becoming increasingly rare.
Fernando’s (Coloane)
A true highlight. Considered one of the last bastions of authentic Macanese food, Fernando’s delivers comforting, flavorful dishes in an unpretentious setting. It’s easy to understand why this spot is so beloved. Anthony Bourdain ate here during a taping of "No Reservations."
A Lorcha / Apomac
One regret: Apomac (also known as A Lorcha), a classic Macanese restaurant often recommended for traditional dishes like minchi. Sadly, I wasn’t able to make it there this time, which was disappointing given how quickly authentic Macanese cuisine is disappearing. It’s firmly on my list for a return visit.
Folcoffee
Great coffee, but the real star is Mia, the resident cat. I saw a cat photo on Google and immediately added it to my itinerary. Zero regrets.
文記咖啡美食 (Wenji Coffee & Food)
A classic Hong Kong–style café with fast service, comforting local dishes, and that old-school cha chaan teng vibe. Great spot for a casual, no-frills meal that feels very local.
菻.咖啡 (Lin Coffee)
Definitely on the pricier side, but the coffee quality is outstanding. Tucked on a side street away from the crowds, it’s a perfect quiet escape for serious coffee lovers.
Sun Rising Restaurant
Solid local spot with reliable, satisfying dishes and a very neighborhood feel. Not flashy, but the kind of place you go for consistent, comforting food.
Lord Stow’s Bakery
Macau’s famous egg tarts live up to the hype—creamier and less sweet than their Portuguese counterparts. While Pastelaria Santo António in Lisbon still wins for me, these were absolutely worth it. There are two locations, one in the Londoner and the other near the Taipa Houses. The one in the Londoner cost 2 MOP more for one egg tart but has much shorter lines. The location near the Taipa Houses had a line wrapped around the corner, but it moved fast. There's also a Lord Stow's in Manila.
Ou Pou Restaurant
The pineapple bun pork sandwich was exactly as good as everyone says.
Mia, the Folcoffee kitty
Final Thoughts: Is Macau Worth It?
Yes—with caveats. Macau is best enjoyed in short bursts as a side trip from Hong Kong. While the museums don’t offer much depth, the combination of temples, food, hillside walks, and high-glam casinos creates a memorable experience.
Taipa Village