6 Days in Sri Lanka: Temples, Tea Plantations & Coastal Views

I loved Sri Lanka. I also got caught in a commission scam, rode a train that smelled like urine, watched monkeys rob tourists, and met more cats than I can count. It’s one of the few places I’ve traveled alone where I felt safe as a woman, which I can’t say about its neighbor to the north. The scams here were small-time compared to Egypt.

Arrival: Efficient for Once

I applied for the e-visa a week before my flight and had it in my email the next day. Visa on arrival is an option, but having it ahead of time made immigration at Colombo quick and painless. I arranged a hotel pickup, which I’d recommend, and then bought a Dialog SIM at the airport. It was 20GB for $4.44, and three employees were working at 12:30am with no line to speak of. After Dakar, it felt like luxury.

Once I had a number, I added it to the PickMe app. Uber works too, but PickMe is what most people use here, and it’s cash only.

I stayed at Aathma Colombo House, which has beautiful decor and two cats who act as the guest relations committee. I was asleep within minutes.

Guest Relations Manager, Aathma Colombo House

Day 1: Colombo – Culture + Cardio

After breakfast I went to the Geoffrey Bawa Residence, which feels like stepping into the 1960s. You can only visit on a guided tour, so check the schedule first.

From there I walked to the National Museum of Colombo (1200 LKR, cash only) and then met my guide at Independence Memorial Square. We cut through Viharamahadevi Park, home to a giant golden Buddha and a building that looks a lot like the U.S. Capitol. My guide told me the park used to be where couples went to be alone. Now they go to the malls.

We hit Gangaramaya Temple and Seema Malaka, then passed Sri Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam, the market area, and Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque. To get from Seema Malaka to the shopping district we took a bus. My guide’s advice was to sit in the middle. The red buses are fairly orderly. The blue private ones are chaos, but there are a lot more of them.

I bought my train ticket to Sigiriya at Colombo Fort Railway Station. Only second class was left, at 1200 LKR ($3.80). First class has A/C and sells out fast. Tickets go on sale two weeks ahead and you can buy them online, but locals seem to just buy at the station.

One thing I’d been told: Commercial Bank of Ceylon, Bank of Ceylon, and People’s Bank don’t charge ATM fees. That turned out to be only partly true.

Day 2: Bank Trouble and a Fake Gem Exhibition

I checked out of my hotel and went to the Bank of Ceylon near the lighthouse, where my card didn’t work. Great start.

I asked a man who looked like he was gainfully employed where to find the Commercial Bank of Ceylon. He said he worked for the U.S. embassy, flagged down a tuk-tuk, paid the driver, and sent me off to the “main branch.” On the way, he mentioned a gem exhibition I should see. Red flag.

I got my cash, and the “exhibition” was a shop, as expected. It’s a standard commission scam. I also paid a 400 LKR ATM fee, so much for that no-fee tip. The tuk-tuk driver then tried to charge me five times the normal rate, so I opened PickMe and left.

To kill time before my train, I went to Biling for mocktails and a live singer covering Alicia Keys and other slow jams. It seemed to be where the local money hangs out.

The train itself was rough. My seat was near the bathroom, which smelled like urine, and there were no outlets, so charge your devices beforehand. I also realized my ticket was for Habarana, not Sigiriya. There’s no direct train to Sigiriya.

I stayed at Sigiri Saat Cabana. The owner drove me to dinner because his kitchen closed early. 

Day 3: Sigiriya and Pidurangala

I climbed Sigiriya Rock Fortress first thing to beat the heat. Entry is $35 and it’s around 1200 steps to the top. Afterward I visited the Sigiriya Museum. You can’t photograph the frescoes on the rock, but the recreations in the museum are fair game. They’re also a bit spicier than I expected.

I took a nap, then climbed Pidurangala Rock (1000 LKR, $3.16). It’s less developed than Sigiriya, with more scrambling and no guard rails, but the view of Lion’s Rock from the top is worth it.

Be careful with the monkeys. I watched one grab a woman’s banana, and I’d been warned they’ll take purses too, so don’t set yours down for a photo.

Me very tired at sweaty at the top of Pidurangala Rock

Day 4: Dambulla, Tea Country and the Train to Ella

The Kandy to Ella train route was closed because of a cyclone, so I hired a driver (30,000 LKR, about $95) to take me to Ambewela Railway Station instead.

Our first stop was Dambulla Cave Temple, which was one of my favorite places on the trip. There are a lot of stairs, but it’s worth the climb. At the entrance a man tried to walk me in as my “guide” without ever saying who he was. His coworkers shut it down by repeating “no guide” until he left. The posted guide price is 750 LKR, so don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.

We also stopped at Blue Field Tea Gardens, and the drive through tea country was beautiful.

The Ambewela to Ella train costs 250 LKR ($0.79) and takes about two hours. The views are unreal. Sit on the side away from the station. Plenty of people hang out of the open doors for photos, which is not something I was willing to do.

I stayed at Happy Horizons Homestay. It’s cash only, and there’s a cat and a dog on site. I’d give it a 10 out of 10.

A Note on Money

Sri Lanka is picky about U.S. dollars. One of my bills was rejected for a small mark and another for a tiny tear in the corner. Larger bills get better rates, and changing money at banks means more paperwork. It's better to go to a money changing shop.

Day 5: Tea Factory and a Kitten Named Luna

I visited the Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory, which is a good intro to how Ceylon tea is made. Tours run every 30 minutes. Back at the homestay, I watched the dog chase monkeys around like a nature documentary.

Then I headed to Galle. My driver stopped to pray before we left, which I respected. The ride was another 30,000 LKR ($95).

I checked into Olinda Galle Hotel and met Luna, a kitten that had been found the day before. I was attached immediately.

Day 6: Galle Fort

Galle Fort is very walkable and you can see most of it in a day. I visited:

• Maritime Archaeology Museum (worth it)
• Maritime Museum (skip)
• National Museum of Galle (also skip)
• Historical Mansion Museum (quick, but interesting)
• Dutch Reformed Church
• The lighthouse
• Fort Clock Tower

I also walked through the old Dutch Hospital Shopping Precinct, which is now full of shops and restaurants. Dinner was at Maru, with good key lime pie and another friendly cat. At Spices Hub I bought cinnamon (100g for 2500 LKR), since Sri Lanka is famous for it.

Galle was hit hard by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, and seeing how much it has rebuilt is incredible.

I took the coastal train back to Colombo (500 LKR). Get there early for a window seat, because the views are great. Before my flight I stopped at Tonic Wellness for a body scrub and a facial.

Final Thoughts

I did a full loop: Colombo, Sigiriya, Ella, Galle, and back to Colombo. I didn’t make it north this time, but I’ll be back.

Sri Lanka will test you at least once, but that’s part of the experience. The vibe is relaxed and the food is amazing. Double check everything, and trust the PickMe price.

Sri Lanka and Georgia (the country) are the two most underrated places I’ve traveled to.